If you are looking to step up your roll game this Thanksgiving, I would suggest adding things with a punchy flavor like soffritto or gremolata when you’re kneading the dough. At the restaurant, we make a version of a classic Pullman roll but with the addition of miso and cumin.
I even get excited about what may be the nut’s highest and best use, exemplified in this eminently appetizing recipe from Jessica Maher, the co-owner of Austin’s lovely Lenoir restaurant, in which pecans are toasted and then suspended in a sugary amber of cream, golden syrup, and just a splash of bourbon. For the digestion, you know.
The cuisine drives the transportive experience as much as the aesthetic. The menu is a global jaunt. With the term “hot-weather food,” chef Todd Duplechan has defined his cuisine and culinary point of view with impressive clarity and acuity.
In Duplechan’s cooking, far-fetched flavors accent near-fetched ingredients, from a jerk quail with pecan butter and persimmon to an Indian dosa with seared antelope heart and Ethiopian berbere. It’s fusion cooking, essentially, executed with rigor, restaurant, and a clear sense of purpose.
Todd Duplechan is one of the city’s most talented chefs. He’s also not afraid to acknowledge when he doesn’t know something.
After Austin’s Lenoir was named one of Bon Appétit’s Best New Restaurants of 2012, chef/owners Jessica Maher and Todd Duplechan were approached by the James Beard House to host one of its famed dinners.
Austin, already a celebrated spot famous for forging new community pathways in food and art, may be witnessing the renaissance of home butchery and the cultural revolution of goat meat consumption. Lucky us.
Cross your fingers that the buttermilk rabbit is still on the menu at this funky, French-inspired spot. Pay close attention to the desserts—they’re some of the best in town.
Lenoir is No. 1 on the Fed Man 55 for all the right reasons. Great cooking, a strong local identity, decor that marries form and function, smooth service, good wine and something you don’t often see at this level: real value. The husband-and-wife team of Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher synchronized those elements in just one year, easily 2012’s most impressive debut.
The 2013 [CultureMap] Tastemaker Awards highlighted the Austin food scene’s growing diversity — and its acceptance of new talent.Best Restaurant: Lenoir